I want to share with you a tutorial on making haute couture dresses. Today you will learn how to create the pattern, simulate and sew a dress quite complex cut, I’ll show you all the main stages of sewing and tell you all the features of such fabrics, like chiffon, lace Chantilly, lining in skin tone. So, the inspiration for the creation of this image was the red dress Taylor Swift, in the photo below you can see that on the dress there are relief lines and selected a very fine lace, possible Chantilly, naked body effect created by allegedly using padding in the color, the right picture of my results operation model captured in a studio.
- Building pattern.
Plans for the dress of the cut can be created in several ways: 1) build on graph paper, then cut; 2) to simulate RedCafe program. I chose the program because for a long time in her work, I like how quickly and easily you can simulate any silhouette perfectly any design, and then to sew patterns on the other article. So, I have installed on your computer RedCafe program, find it very easy. I took the dress from the foundation Kochesovoy and happy landing and conjugation of all the lines on the pattern.
Here is our simulation result in the program. A very handy feature is the separation of lines by color right now demonstrates the location and design of decorative lines.
I also want to note that the elementary modeling dress hem and we specially in the program will not simulate, do it directly on the fabric, no matter you are a beginner or not, make it so, it is rational.
Few words about me: I am a clothing designer, fascinated by his work, I create master classes and teaching in the courses, as well as sew, just because I like it madly.
2. Lining scalloping.
Our preparatory stages are over, now we are working directly with a cloth or padding to the basics of our dress bodice. To this end, we print out the pattern. Putting a pattern combining angles scheduled for the pattern without considering the fields that are partially cut off.
Impose our vykroku on the base fabric and the main line namelyaem soap, chalk, felt-tip pen or endangered.
Grind tuck on the machine with the maximum width of the stitch, without tack, get swept away on a typewriter line tucks.
Just grind time stitching the side seams, and we will continue to see whether we have achieved the desired landing on a mannequin.
It should be noted that the creation of complex products almost always takes place in “one step forward, two steps back” mode, since we are faced with the unknown variables, such as whether good enough to look the product is made of this fabric, whether necessary to us landing on the figure, and to the way a little bit later, you will see that the fabric padding I replaced the other satin fabric, using the matte side of the front of the product. And in the photo below of supplex lining, which proved to be too “heavy” for our air top with simulated transparency.
We provide a fitting on a mannequin, plant product, we achieve a perfect fit in the chest and under the breast, we outline the line tucks. Now we are sure that the lining is cut correctly and then get to work with lace Chantilly, 50 cm of which turned out to be 50% of the cost of materials, spent all the clothes, including a 10 m chiffon used for the dress hem.
3. Work with Chantilly lace.
So cut out lace patterns for padding, the direction of the warp threads may be located in both the longitudinal and transverse direction, depending on the pattern of lace, and then fasten the lace on the sides and tuck can now grind previously cut the excess lace on all slices.
The thin line in the color of the fabric – is a line in the lining for marking the relief lines, it will help to achieve greater accuracy. Then we grind Taliev darts, press out to center. Look how they are now invisible to the front of the lace.
4. pritachivaniya embossed lines.
In order to form contour lines of the reliefs, I chose oblique inlay knitting, and not lost in spite of the fact that it is somewhat thinner than the line that we need, it is easy to work, it has practically no gloss. The sequence of lines pritachivaniya is also very important. You can make a sample for which it will be clear which line need pritachivat first, and which in the latter.
5. Processing sections bodice dresses.
The next stage of sewing – is processing sections, and we have the inlay knitting, which is well suited for our purposes, as well as satin bias binding, the example I will show you how to make invisible processing armholes cut.
Neck bodice, turning into an incision in the back is processed by knitting Bakey nastrochennoy to turn on each other, the armhole processed inlay, which, in turn, twist on the wrong side.
6. Cutting padding and chiffon for the bottom of the dress.
We have a piece of fabric is suitable for padding, since the material is transparent chiffon top. Cut polusolntse, as shown in the pictures below, and the next step is to calculate the radius of the waist. For this count: From (waist circumference), multiply by 2, since we do not have full sun and it polusolntse, hence the number 2, then multiply by the number of 2hPi. = 70 From example. R = Radus (70h2) / (2h3,14) = 22,3sm. The second radius of an arbitrary length skirt. I namelyayu disappearing marker and it is very convenient, I advise you to buy this for yourself.
Working with large fabric yardage. So, we used to skirt chiffon 10 m, and it’s a lot, with a width of 1.5 m and now let us consider how to deal with such a large piece of fabric. To begin with we find fabric warehouse, where we cut off the desired length at a wholesale price to pay not much, then measure off-cut is a fabric store and there is a feature! We have to look at the tissue for the presence of a marriage, and other spots. I got to the beginning of the roll, and there was a marriage, and stains, and some line to the same, so be careful in the store or warehouse. Now let’s talk about dekatirovke (wet-heat treated to shrink) chiffon, if 100% polyester, it is quite possible that the shrinkage of the fabric does not, in order to find this out, you need to try on a tissue sample, there are different types of tissue and that we the most inexpensive version without the use of natural fibers, therefore, decided not to sanforize material. Next you need to get rid of the edge along the edge of the fabric, this incision is made, and then tear across the length of the fabric, similar to proceed with the lower edge, ie tear rather than cut, so will be more precise.
Done! 10 m chiffon length of 115 cm for the dress hem and lining, now our task is to make the assembly on the waist line, ie assemble 10 meters of the finest chiffon on waist circumference of 70 cm, this will make two lines at a distance of 1 cm from each other and begin to pull the thread in advance I say that if you take a thread thin and start it hard to pull the more likely it will break and will not work, so use the “Petersburg” thread, made in St. Petersburg, they reinforced and certainly not tear under strong tension, for overlock same I use thread firms DorTak.
Putting the bottom of dresses lined temporary stitching.
We process all the sections on the Pipe wrap and overlock.
Try on manikene simply putting a bottom to the top, we note that the small belt would make the image lighter and visually slimmer, cutting width belt 3 cm in finished form. Next, connect the back middle seam on the skirt and stitch a hidden zipper. To Sew the zipper, you will need a special foot and a bit of experience.
So we disclose the zipper, leaving a small “tail” at the bottom, then pinned down one side, sew on the machine, very close to the middle seam of the skirt by a foot. Then, close the zipper, scheduled wherein the second side of the zipper is joined with the middle seam, pinned to the machining allowance and then disclose the zipper to the dog stayed outside and pritachivaem second side of the zipper combining the lower part of the lightning on the planned pins short of the 0.6 mm edge this will be enough to gently remove the dog on the outer side of the zipper.
Now our task – Stitch the belt to the bottom with ruffles, then the belt itself to the bodice, so proceed to the final stage of the sewing of the dress, and then I decided to do a photo shoot of our work and the results you can see below 🙂
I thank every reader for your time, I hope I have been able to introduce you to new information, and show clearly how complex podium sewn dresses models and pass some stages in the process of sewing a dress. I was glad to bring you new information and get in touch, sharing their skills and abilities.