Draperies wedding and evening dresses require extraordinary sculptural silhouette, thoroughness during tattooing and accuracy when fixing draperies.
Draperies are doing on the basis of the finished corset.
Be sure to think through style: drape only part of the bodice, or the entire bodice entirely and even the back.
Depending on your choice of fabrics for draperies, its folds will vary in depth and frequency. The thinner and more plastic cloth, the thicker should be the drapery, and the solution was less wrinkles.
Important! Drapery is created on a mannequin, and then checks the correctness of laying folds in the figure, only then cut off the excess fabric and folds are attached to the corset with hand stitches basis.
Working with such a fabric requires special care – chiffon and silk fabrics drape easier. For the first experience of creating draperies choose lighter fabric.
Drapery made throughout the bodice and on the front and on the back.
Consumption of fabric 52 to a size of about 2.30 m with a width of 1.5 m. The smaller size of the fabric will require less.
If you have all the segments on the dress first tailor skirt, then – corset basis, and last of all the remnants of tissue from the whole drape cut bodice. As a rule, a long dress with a draped top is fully consumed 5 to 6 meters of fabric.
Important! Each, planted fold attached to the dummy pins. The photo shows the site of attachment pins folds
Creating draping bodice
For drapery fabric selected from which the most difficult to work with – a dense stretch – satin. Working with such a fabric requires special care – chiffon and silk fabrics drape easier. For the first experience of creating draperies choose lighter fabric.
Drapery made throughout the bodice and on the front and on the back. Consumption of fabric for 52 size of about 2.30 m with a width of 1.5 m. The smaller size of the fabric will require less. In any case – the consumption of tissue is difficult to predict in advance. If you have all the segments on the dress, skirt tailor first, then – corset basis, and last of all the remnants of tissue from the whole drape cut bodice. As a rule, a long dress with a draped top is fully consumed 5 to 6 meters of fabric. Important: Each, laid fold attached to the dummy pins, it will be understood by itself, and in the future, this phrase is omitted in the narrative. The photo shows the site of attachment pins folds – Enlarge photo by clicking on the thumbnails! • corsetry foundation puts on a mannequin. Chalk or felt-tip pen disappearing inflict the start line of drapery. • Take a piece of cloth, place it on the bias with respect to the center of the forehand, folded the fabric first fold on the wrong side. Flap of tissue does not necessarily have to correct oblique (45 ° in relation to the equity thread) – deviations. These deviations arise by themselves as a result of laying the drapery folds. • Laying a second fold. Ideally, folds should not overlap each other, and if the thin tissues is acceptable, the more dense (as in our example), you must strive to ensure that the folds do not overlap. Therefore, on a mannequin figure out how deep folds we lay, and the interval between them. These values will always be determined only empirically, and will depend on your chosen style and fabric. This is ideal when parallel folds lays equal and equally spaced, but in practice it is not so smooth. The larger bust, the harder it is to observe the parallel folds. Do not always turn out the folds of the same size and the same depth. In the photo you can see that at the top of the corset some folds have a lower depth. Folds in the drapery can be superimposed on each other inside. This is due to the fact that strictly parallel folds, in this case, would have increased relative to the other one breast. After fitting of the corset reduces the frequency of the folds, as the eye is very rushed difference between the right and left halves.
• We continue to lay the fold, moving from the top to the bottom of the corset bases. All edges of the folds are directed upwards. Pull gently fold when plugging in dummy pins. There should be a slight folds tension, otherwise, they sag on the finished product. But by pulling folds need to comply with the measure, since excessive tension can lead to deformation of the base is the upper part (drapes) will be less than the inside, and corsetry base after removing it from the dummy will be small.
• draped bodice left half, cut by a large margin the free edges of the drapery (not attached to the corset basis). According to one of the pins perekalyvaya dummy fasten them every fold, grabbing corset basis. Perekolov all pins, remove the base with drapery with dummy and fasten the machine stitching edge draperies. The photo is very well visible machine stitching.
• Getting the right halves of the drapery. Have a piece of cloth strictly on the bias, folded the it to the wrong side, and laid the first fold along the marked earlier chalk line.
• Similarly, as in the left half, we continue to lay the folds from top to bottom. Slightly tightens them to avoid sagging tissue. Try to do equal radial folds with equal distances between them. At first it’s hard to do – do not be afraid to do it all again a few folds to achieve beautiful results.
• The photo shows a gradual process of laying the drapery folds with the right and left sides corset base.
• If in the process, you do not have the depth of some folds on one of the sides, this point should be analyzed. The fact that the radial folds have a larger solution on one side (in this case – on the left) than in another, and in the middle of the work may come a time when the drape cloth does not want to be put in the fold on the right side. This means that take less depth of wrinkles on the left side, where the solution is put more folds. What to do? Disassemble part of the folds, and lay them again so that the slightly increased solution folds from the left side. Then on the right, you will be able to lay the folds – there, where there is the least solution.
• Once you are happy with everything in the drapery, pinned her to the pins corset basis disclaim dummy try on the figure, we specify some folds and fix them. Only then can cut the excess fabric and attach to drapery corset basis – on a path of machine stitching, and inside the folds – hand stitches. The back of the corset draped similarly.
• How to deal with clasp, is solved in each case individually. The back on this dress does not split, with reliefs and middle seam. The thickness of the left side seam, after laying the drapery was 1 cm with folds, otherwise would not have radial draperies. Hence – the change in the position of lightning, it is made with the right hand side seam.
• For fitting was used is not a standard method: grind off the side seams on the front side. Thanks to this fitting can easily rip a seam and make adjustments to the fold right in the figure.
• And, a little trick. Sometimes there is not enough piece of fabric on the whole drapery. In this case, proceed as follows: laying folds up to the moment when enough tissue, cut irregularities, then take a new piece on the bias laying new fold overlapping the cut and sew blind stitches this fold.