Epoxy and wire jewelry
And epoxy and wire jewelry, in terms of jewelry special. Conventional wire is uncoated and darkens with time. It can certainly be used as advantazh, but not the fact that oxides will not spoil the product in the process. More or less suitable aluminum wire can be in flower shops. But again, most likely without a coating.
Take the wire quite soft, but not too thin. I 1.5 mm aluminum coated. We turn off the ring. It is advisable to use any form of deliberately flat.
Side cutters cut the long end of the wire. Keep in mind that this is one tip (here it would be right) is sharp, and the second – perpendicular to the wire, which is what we need.
Likewise clipped the tail is very, very close (and even better with a meager margin) to the first cut.
Connecting the ends of the ring. The tighter they are adjacent to each other – the better.
Now our ring pasted onto a tape, it is desirable to first mounted on a flat surface, sticky side up.
Since the epoxy is better to plant at least 10 ml, and the blanks should be done several, unless of course you do not want to throw away excess epoxy divorced. It is important to check the fit ringlet to the surface.
Then I fill the frame artistic debris – inlays. Actually advised to fill in the bottom layer first, and then pour the garbage, but as the time from batch to pour epoxy is limited, I am doing in a different order.
So, spread the work piece, integrity tested, can be diluted.
I use Ice Resin (odorless liquid, and provides almost no bubbles – last Pts important). I measure out the same amount of resin and hardener …
It is important to measure the exact amount of liquid. Epoxy – a piece insidious: little more than a hardener and it will start “goats” (that is, reaching out for those horns instrument) too quickly; a little less – and you’ll have to wait until the lens zastynut forever. 🙂
Once again, a special epoxy, jewelry or Ice Resin Crystal Resin. From the industry by the absence of odor, greater transparency and less vesicular.
Once upon a time I am trying to do with potting epoxy glue – an order of magnitude worse than the quality, difficult to work with him, and in general it is for jewelry purposes not intended.
I kneaded. First, the resin becomes cloudy, it appears opalescent divorce – this is normal. Continue stirring for another minute and a half … until the mixture is clear. Large bubbles come out themselves, gradually smaller, too. However, in an article they will need help to “hatch”. From the beginning of the mixing and before “getting up” epoxy us somewhere 30-40 minutes.
I use a rubber stack for oil (it will continue in the frame), they also expel bubbles.
Initial fill, as seen in the photo, does not cover the “junk” completely. This is normal. At this point, we just have to create a “bottom” and to fix the picture. You can even pour less – within the lower right corner, I overdid it. 🙂 For everything we have half an hour: to fill, or to drive a needle stack bubbles, make sure the lenses are filled with more or less evenly.
Now breathe out for 8-10 hours and hide our plates with fills the far, freed from dust and cover shelf cover, leaving between it and the shelf small gap for air.
Step Two. At the end of the lens 8-10 hours ready for secondary filling. Again knead epoxy and carefully apply a second coat. It needs to cover all exposed parts.
Epoxy does not contain solvents, therefore, does not shrink during solidification. In addition, it is viscous, so if it pour “heaped” it podtechet to the edge and stops there. But here it is important not to overdo it.
After another 8-10 hours….
this stage they look strashnenko. Now we take the solvent and washed with remnants skotchevogo glue. Suitable alcohol, gasoline, white-spirit, acetone or nail varnish.
Fill the inside out the third layer and dry 8-10 hours. Voila. 🙂 You can drill is inserted into the frame, braid wire, and anything else that your heart desires.
And the work of the epoxy