Kokedama

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Kokedama akin bonsai originated this art just in Japan, but much younger bonsai. Translated “kokedama” from Chinese (despite the fact that this trend originated in Japan) as “moss ball.” Invented his farmers who used to create kokedamy peat land with rice fields, moss and plants growing on hand. The art of bonsai considered a noble and they could only deal with members of the nobility, while the peasants had no opportunity to buy expensive bowls for bonsai, and that’s coming out in such a way out of this situation – do your “bonsai”. That is why kokedamu in Asia called “poor man’s bonsai” 
In the Asian countries have their own school kokedamy and each master has its own own recipe for soil kokedamy, their tricks and techniques. But in fact kokedamu can make each with their own hands and in contrast to the noble art of bonsai in kokedame no hard and fast rules, and more often than not used tree crops and herbaceous plants (due to lack of bowls as such kokedame difficult to form trees, as it is done in a bonsai, but it does not mean that you can not use in kokedame tree crops and build their freestyle). In Asia exhibition held annually kokedamy, while in Russia on this not even heard of, but sorry 
I. Ingredients and tools:
1. Black peat keto – Japanese black peat-rich clay. Get it extremely difficult and expensive, so we replaced it with a mixture of peat and black cosmetic clay. Peat take riding it – it has a low ash content, you can buy it in a flower shop. Black cosmetic clay sold in pharmacies in small boxes (in Moscow is 25-30 rubles per box) and is designed to produce facial masks. Clay and peat equal parts we need, but more on that later. And so we have two instead of one ingredient:
– peat moss ;
– black cosmetic clay ;
2. The granular soil for bonsai akadama . It can of course be replaced by the garden soil, but it is certainly, I recommend using it akadama. Akadama sold in stores selling bonsai soils for bonsai and bonsai tools. In Moscow at the Exhibition Centre in Hall geology is such soil on sale (or ask to share with you akadama you know who is engaged in bonsai).
3. sphagnum moss . Well this just COMPONENT find – just look at any florist sells of soil for house plants. And the best score sphagnum in nature – no one store  with him can not be compared in quality (I threw a few packets of sphagnum, because one was trash without stems, and the other half of the package of moldy decaying leaves and branches).
4 . Green moss . This will be covered with moss kokedama top. It can get in the woods and parks. Try to tear the same moss (in the same place can grow several species of moss that are visually different and that the future does not look kokedama glued together from different pieces – moss is better to take the same). However, you can kokedamu yin green moss cover, and use the beautiful winding rot-string, but the moss close to nature and we often want a piece of the forest in his windowsill or desktop.
5. Plants . Well here is limitless imagination. Plants can be from one to …. how much you want to kokedamy ball, so you can create a composition with a few plants. Best suited ferns, and moisture-loving plants (if using green moss, which requires moist soil and spraying) and shade-tolerant (green moss can not direct the bright sun to stand) or even succulent (if green moss is not used).
6. Cotton yarn (namely 100% cotton, because it will rot without remainder) of any color, if it is green moss or sphagnum in the colour or the colour of the decorative twine.
7. Thickness 0.24 mm fishing line will suffice.
8. Scissors ;
9. The basin or bowl in which to knead the ground.
10. container for soaking sphagnum;
11. container for soaking akadama.
12. A couple of hours of free time (actually less).
Who does not want to get your hands dirty ground – advance purchase gloves (surgical better – they are easier to thread and fishing line work).

II. Preparatory work.
1. Green moss thoroughly rinse residues from soil and debris. Better to do it in distilled water – so the moss will not accumulate salts in itself, and chlorine is not the best way affect the moss. After washing, lay moss in a sealed container or tray and close the lid (or cling film).
2. Akadama should be soaked for a day in distilled water or defend. To wash or clean it is not necessary. Before the production kokedamy water is drained and give akadama a couple of hours to dry.

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III. Cooking kokedamu.
1. Put sphagnum soaked in a separate container, while we deal with soil (dry sphagnum impossible to work – it is brittle and debris).
2. Interfere with the soil of peat, clay and black cosmetic akadama in a ratio of 2: 2: 3. If you plan to moisture-loving plants such as ferns, you can take another recipe: peat moss, black clay mask, chopped sphagnum akadama in the proportion of 1: 2: 1: 3. , and all you want and you think is best for your plants, but keep in mind that I have submitted recipes are tested and they keep their shape. Pouring water into a bowl and stirring constantly we bring our ground mixture to the state of soft clay.
3. Clear the roots of our plants from the ground and wrapped with a small amount of sphagnum.
4. Around plant roots begin ground;
5. Attach a ground ball shape, impacting the hands (and in order to form a ball and in order to seal the earthen room and bleed).
6. Put the ball with a plant on a flat solid surface and gently press down to get a flat bottom. In this work the ground over.
7. Take out the sodden sphagnum lightly squeeze and wrap them a ball of soil. I recommend not to be greedy with sphagnum (later explain why) – try to layer of sphagnum after thread was not thinner than 1.5 cm! Otherwise, the soil will dry quickly.
8. Wrap the ball over the sphagnum thread, pulling tightly to the surface of the sphagnum soils. On the thread do not skimp too – the more turns – the ball will be more dense, so it more closely adhere to green moss. The thread does not necessarily lead through the centre – just at the edges of the trunks of plants go above and diagonally down.
9. Ball over the sphagnum moss green slices and wrap all of this fishing line, then the line on multiple nodes somewhere below. The fact that the line is visible – do not worry, because layer of green moss grows and closes a fishing line from the eye.
10. Put the finished kokedamu for 20-40 minutes in the water (water should completely cover the bowl), and then take up permanent residence. The pallet is better to use deep – so there will always be water moss.

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IV. Care kokedamoy:
1. Watering once a week by immersion for 20 minutes in distilled water ball, during the week, make sure that the water was in the pan.
2. Spraying: Moss loves the water, because often try to spray the surface of the ball.
3. Haircut : periodically (every 2 weeks) slightly trim the moss – it will grow thicker, plants trimmed as needed.
4. Fertilizer: sheet by spraying fertilizer (foliar application) every 2 weeks. Better use of fertilizer for orchids – there are no lime (moss appreciate it).

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For those who better to see once than read a hundred times – that, in fact, a video master class, but I must warn – video lasts almost 2 hours! (But all the stages, “and from”).

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