Hello!
Here is a summer dress I sewed my little daughter. This spacious dress raglan cut and decorated with puffed from the neckline to the shoulder.
In this master class, I’ll show you how to make itself a pattern and sew a dress.
For the work we need to:
1) x / cotton fabric in white;
2) sewing thread;
3) thread floss;
4) lace;
5) for the construction of graph paper pattern dress;
6) a pencil;
7) a marker for the tissue;
8) dressmaker pins;
9) tailor’s chalk;
10) a pair of scissors;
11) embroidery needle;
12) tape measure;
13) bias binding;
14) buttons;
15) sewing machine;
16) iron.
The work begins with the measurement of children’s figures.
To create a pattern of such dresses will need the following measurements:
1) The arc of the shoulder belt behind (Dp.z) – measured horizontally on the back between the protruding points of the shoulder;
2) Chest (Gr) – measured horizontally around the fullest part of the breast;
3) Sleeve Length (Dr.) – this product is measured from the armpits down the arm to the desired length;
4) sleeve width (Wp) – this product is measured horizontally around your hand at the spot where it ends the desired length of a sleeve;
5) Length of articles (Di) – this product is measured vertically on the back of the most salient points of the neck (from the 7th cervical vertebra) to the desired length of the dress.
BUILDING SUPPORT Lek.
On a sheet of graph paper draw a two perpendicular lines and at their point of intersection, the letter A (Fig. A). These lines are drawn in the middle of the sheet, as later on it will fold the sheet.
All constructions produce in the bottom left corner.
AB = AB = SH = ½ Dp.z 1.3 cm (Fig. B, d).
VD = ¼ Gr + 3.8 cm (Fig. B, d).
AE = AF = 1/12 = ZHZ Og + 0.5 cm (Fig. B, d).
From t A compass conduct arc radius segment AE, connecting points E and F (Figure b, d.) -. Is the line of the neck.
At BG straight postpone segments BI = 2 cm and CC = 3.8 cm (Fig. A, d).
We connect points A and K smooth line (Figure a, d.) – It is the armhole line under the armpits.
Connecting points D and E by a straight line (Figure a, d.) – It is the shoulder line.
Of m. A compass perform arc radius equal to the segment AB connecting points B and C (fig. C, d).
Through point D, and K carry straight line and extend it further. At the point of intersection of this line with arc BV put t. A, at the intersection with the arc hedgehog set point M (Fig. D).
On the line-up of t GB. To postpone a segment equal to the segment KM and set point N (Fig. D).
NP = DG (Fig. D).
GN = DP (Fig. D).
Cut out the template number 1 lines passing through the points A-C-H-P (Fig. A, d). This is the template for the further construction of the armhole D-Q-H sleeve, shelves and back dresses.
Remaining sheets are twice two. Cut a piece along the lines passing through the points M-M-E-And-A-B (Fig. B).
Translate the segment LM on the bottom three layers of paper. Unveiling the cut parts. Cut the upper part on the green line, then connect the resulting halves with the lower part (yellow arrows) with adhesive tape (Fig. C). So we got the template number 2 (Fig. D).
Template number 2, we need to build a sleeve, shelves and back, and will also serve as templates for forming the board (see. Pp 19, 20).
Segments 1-2 and 3-4 on the template number 2 – it is the shoulder line dresses.
The segments LM and M1L1 – front seams sleeves.
Stretches L2M2 and M3L3 – rear seams sleeves.
Segments 5-6 and 7-8 – the mid line of the back.
Cut 9-10 – line middle shelves.
A drawing pattern sleeves.
In the middle of a sheet of graph paper draw a vertical straight line (Fig. A, the green line). For this sheet line then we will bend in half.
From point 1 to the left perpendicular to spend a second line and it is metered intervals (Fig a.):
1-2 = arc length x MM2 MM2 3. The length of the arc measure measuring tape on the template number 2 (see p. 5 Fig. D).
2-3 = DG (see. P. 4, Fig. D).
Of Vol. 3 hold down the perpendicular line relative to the line 1-3.
Superimposed on the drawing pattern number 1, combining its top point with points 2 and 3 in the drawing (Fig. B).
We trace the template on the line armholes D-Q-H (Fig. B, red arrow). At the point of intersection with the vertical line put tons. 4.
From Vol. 4 down postpone the interval 4-5 = Ap (Fig. C).
From v. 5 to the right spend a line perpendicular to the relative length of 4-5 (Fig. C).
5-6 = 1-3.
1-6 = 3-5.
Construction drawing of a sleeve pattern on it completed.
Fold the sheet in half held in the beginning of the construction of the vertical line and cut the sleeve detail on lines passing through the points 1-2-4-5-6 (Fig. D).
Unveiling the paper and get the pattern sleeves (Fig. F). From fabric will be cut out of two parts.
A drawing pattern shelves and back.
In the middle of a sheet of graph paper draw a vertical straight line (Fig. A, the green line). For this sheet line then we will bend in half.
From point 7, the left holding a second line perpendicular to and it is metered intervals (Fig a.):
7-8 = arc length x 3. MM1 MM1 arc length measure measuring tape on the template number 2 (see p. 5 Fig. D).
8-9 = DG (see. P. 4, Fig. D).
Of Vol. 9 hold down a line perpendicular to the line 7-9.
Superimposed on the drawing pattern number 1, combining its top points to points 8 and 9 in the drawing (Fig. B).
We trace the template on the line armholes D-Q-H (Fig. B, red arrow). At the point of intersection with the vertical line put tons. 10.
From t. 7 cut down postpone 7-12 = Au + 6 cm (Fig. C).
From Vol. 12 act perpendicular line to the left relative to the interval of 7-12 (Fig. S).
7-9 = 11-12.
7-12 = 9-11.
Parallel lines 11-12 up holding four lines with the distance between them is 3 cm shaded place -. It folds at the bottom of the dress (Fig c.).
Construction drawing patterns shelves and back into it over.
Fold the sheet in half held in the beginning of the construction of the vertical line and cut out detail on lines passing through the point 7-8-10-11-12 (Fig. D).
Unveiling the paper and cut along the fold. We get the pattern shelves and back (Fig. F). From fabric will cut out the two back parts and one part shelves folded in the middle.
Croy.
Fold fabric c / b face fabric in half inside. Pinned pattern pieces to the fabric dressmaker pins. We cut out the details with SEAM, as shown in the picture (the red lines and numbers).
(All dimensions are given hereinafter in centimeters).
Translate folds line from shelves and back into the fabric. To do this, turn on these lines turn down the paper, starting from the bottom, and draw out on paper fold tailor’s chalk.
Translate line folds the second half of the second shelf and the back part.
For this purpose we have already planned lines of shear layers of fabric dressmaker pins (Fig. A), turn over the item and visible part of the pins hold the line with a ruler and tailor’s chalk (Fig. B).
At the back the same way it is necessary to translate the middle line of the back.
Now, along the lines of the folds, the mid line of the back and the middle line of shelves (for tissue fold) using a needle with contrasting color stitching thread paving seam “forward needle”.
The lower sleeve cut on the front side of the fabric and the lace putting a dressmaker shear pins (Fig. A).
Sewn lace machine stitching “zigzag” (Fig. B).
Is folded fabric with lace sewn on the wrong side of the sleeve and are paving the finishing line of the seam width of 0.1 cm (Fig. C) tissue fold.
At the bottom of the sleeves do the layout for future folds (buf).
To do this, take the exercise book “in the box”. Draw four lines on it in pencil: the first – at a distance of 3 cells from the edge (1.5 cm), the next – 2 cells (1 cm) from the previous ones (fig a.).
Impose exercise book with markings on the underside of the sleeve edge of the sheet to the fabric fold and makes fun of his tailor’s pins (Fig. A).
Unbent paper scheduled for the first line and put the tissue in terms appropriate box notebook sheet (Fig. B). Then turn down the sheet at the second target line and then put points on the tissue (Fig. C). So mark up all four lines (Fig. D).
A point made by our markup needle with contrasting color thread and durable paving the four lines of the seam “forward needle” (fig. A).
Threads take a 20 cm longer than the width of the sleeve. It should hang freely at 10 cm from the outer cue points on each side. All lines are doing the same, ie, if one thread stitch line is above the fabric, and then thread the next stitch lines should also be above the fabric (Fig. b).
Fold right sides into the sleeve part with details of shelves and back, combining slices armhole these parts, and sartorial shear pins. We do the same operation with the second sleeve.
Grind down these details on the armhole seam width of 1 cm (Fig. A).
Process the slices armhole on overlock machine or stitching “zigzag” stitch close to the lines of sleeves. Press out the side seams of sleeves (Fig. B).
Along the cut throat products do the layout for future folds (buf).
To do this, take the exercise book “in the box”. Draw on it six lines in pencil first – at a distance of 2 from the edge of the cell (1 cm), the next – 2 cells (1 cm) from the previous ones (fig a.).
Impose exercise book with markings on the underside of the back edge of the plate shear the throat and up to 1 cm from the mid line of the back. Pinned his tailor’s pins (fig. A) and do the layout for the entire length of the notebook sheet as in n. 13 (Fig. B).
Mark all six lines, shift the sheet further, combining the extreme point on the target tissue with a leaf marking lines (Fig. C), and continue counting (Fig. D).
A point made by our markup along the cut needle neck with contrasting color thread and durable paving six stitches seam “forward needle” as in n. 14.
Getting molded dresses, t. E. We will give it shape.
By shrinking the fabric along the neck cut by tightening the lines, collect tissue in the assembly (Fig. A).
Put a template for forming the dress (n. 5, the pattern number 2) onto a hard surface, which can stick a pin (or a padded ironing board material). Put the gathered blank face to the template by combining the template with the neck line cut throat products (Fig. A red arrow).
Align the middle of the line shelves on the template with the line of the middle shelf of the dress, work hard at points overlapping dressmaker pins (Fig. A blue arrow).
We combine the line of the front seams of sleeves on the template with the front seams of sleeves on the dress, the points align to stick pins (Fig. B, red arrows). Similarly combine rear line Sleeveless joints (Fig. C, red arrows).
We combine the middle of the back line on the template with lines mid-back dresses, the points align to stick pins (Fig. D, red arrows).
Spreads folds.
Tie a tightening thread pairs (red arrows).
To secure the fold, stripped of their iron.
So we have given shape to our dress and now you can begin to embroider the pattern.
Before starting to embroider, explain the meaning of some terms that you have understood my future actions.
Pulls together a thread – the thread holding the folds during the execution of embroidery (the thread we laid in § 14 and § 18..).
Withdrawal line – a number formed by a tension thread.
RANGE – a continuous series of stitches; estimated line formed garter thread.
SERIES-BASE – number pattern that is performed first. It forms the basis for the remaining stitch pattern.
FULL SPAN – the distance between the 2 tie lines.
POLUPROMEZHUTOK – half the distance between the 2 tie lines (middle).
QUARTER GAP – ¼ of the distance between 2 tie lines.
Embroider dress neck thread floss three strands on the diagram below.
A number of the base seam perform “tourniquet”. This refers to the non-elastic seam seams, ie, it is not stretched in the transverse direction.
SEAM “HARNESS” – single.
1st stitch: Print the thread between the folds 1 and 2 on the front side and hold the needle from right to left through the 1st fold (fig a.). Tightens the thread. Draw the needle through a second fold, wherein the thread to be under the needle (Fig. B). Tightens the thread until the stitch does not lie in the crease. Completed the lower harness (Fig. C).
2nd stitch: Draw the needle through a fold 3, holding the thread above the needle (Figure d.). Tightens the thread until the stitch does not lie in the crease. Completed upper harness (Fig. E).
3rd stitch. Draw the needle through the fourth crease to run the 2nd lower harness. The thread must be under the needle (fig. F). Tightens the thread until the stitch does not lie in the crease.
We continue to embroider, holding the needle horizontally (parallel to the garter line) when the each stitch and changing the position of the thread (upper harness – thread on the needle, the lower the wiring – the thread under the needle) (fig g.).
SEAM “HARNESS” – turn.
Derive a thread on the front side to the right from the 1st folds stepping down from the 1st-row stitch base a distance equal to the thickness of the needle (Fig. A).
Draw the needle from right to left through the 1st fold (Fig. B). Tightens a thread and execute 2 harness (upper, lower) (Fig. C).
Draw the needle through a fold angle and display on the left of the folds, stepping up from a number of bases on a distance equal to the thickness of the needle (Fig. D). The first pico completed (Fig. E).
Tightens the thread. Perform 2 harness (lower, upper). Draw the needle through the next fold at an angle and display on the left of the folds under the near-ground (Fig. F). The thread should be just above the needle. Pico second over.
Tightens the thread and continue to sew, alternating between a 3 bundles under near-ground and 3 bundles over it (Fig. H).
The seam of the second and subsequent rows are starting to carry out the line of the middle (center) parts shelves (we mentioned it to the n. 11), so that the pattern is not shifted and was symmetrical.
To do this, we derive a string on the front side through a central recess (fig. A) and carry puffs right up to the end of a series in the figure (Fig. B).
Turn the work. Using a new thread, we derive the needle on the front side between the folds of the first thread embroidered harness (Fig. C), and holding a job inverted, perform puffs in the opposite direction until the end of the series (Fig. D).
“Grill” – elastic seam. It is formed by a combination of harnesses and step (or corner) and stitches can be combined with any number of steps.
SEAM “GRID” – 2-SPEED.
Print the thread to the right side to the left of the fold 1 (Fig. A). Hold the thread from the top, holding the needle from right to left across the crease over 2 garter stitch (Fig. B).
Tightens the thread to perform the wiring and the top, holding the needle horizontally, hold it right into the fold 3, stepping down by a quarter period (Fig. C). Tightens the thread (Fig. D).
Hold the needle horizontally, hold it from right to left across the crease 4, stepping down by a quarter period (on polupromezhutke). Over the needle thread (Fig. E).
Hold the thread from the bottom, holding the needle from right to left across the crease to 5 polupromezhutke (Fig. F). Tightens the thread to form lower harness.
Hold the needle horizontally, hold it from right to left across the crease 6, stepping up to the quarter period. A needle thread (Fig. H).
Hold the needle horizontally, hold it from right to left across the crease 7, stepping up to a quarter of the gap (over garter stitch). A needle thread (Fig. K).
Hold the thread from the top, holding the needle from right to left across the crease 8 of garter stitch. Tightens the thread to form the upper harness (fig. M).
We continue to embroider 2 steps down to the lower harness, 2 steps up, the top harness, etc.
SEAM “GRID” – Rombo.
If the ranks of the “grid” to perform in a mirror image, formed diamonds. The more steps a seam, the larger will be diamonds.
Print the thread on the front of the left of the crease under the lower wiring 1 of the top row. Holding the thread over the needle, perform the upper harness directly below the lower harness previous series (Fig. A).
Holding the thread over the needle, perform step 2 Stitch down, one every quarter period (Fig. B).
Holding a needle thread, the lower carry harness, capturing the same fold, and that for the 2nd upper harness previous row (Fig. S).
Holding the thread under the needle, perform step 2 stitch up (onomu through each quarter period) to the lower harness previous series (Fig. D). We carry the top harness (Fig. F).
By repeating the operations described above, we continue to embroider until the end of the series.
SEAM “GRID” – Heart.
Print the string to the left of the fold under the lower wiring 1 of the top row (Fig. A). Holding the thread over the needle, perform the upper harness directly below the lower harness previous series (Fig. B).
Holding the thread over the needle, perform step 5 stitches down one by one every quarter period (Fig. C).
Holding a needle thread, the lower carry harness, capturing the same fold, and that for the 2nd lower harness previous row (Fig. A, d).
Holding the thread under the needle, perform step 5 stitches up (onomu through each quarter period) to the 3rd lower harness previous row. We carry the top harness (Fig. D).
Seam “grid” – hearts over.
After the basic pattern, we decorate our embroidered floral motifs.
Nodule “rococo” – ROSE.
CENTER (in 2 folds). Print the string on the front side at point A on the left of the folds 2 (Fig. 1). Draw the needle from right to left across the top of the folds 3 and 2 (from point B to point A). Leaving the needle in the tissue (Fig. 2).
Entwine thread the needle clockwise 8 times, carrying the coils of the same size (Fig. 3).
Draw the thread through the coils to complete the knot. Withdraw the needle on the wrong side through point B to secure the thread (Fig. 4).
Print the string on the front side at the point of a wire needle from point B to point A and leave it in the tissue (Fig. 5). Finish the knot as before, placing it along the previous node (Fig. 6).
Outer petals. Output the string at the point C to the left of the fold from the needle 1. Draw point D, to the right of the fold 3 to point C. reserve needle into the tissue (Fig. 6).
Entwine thread the needle clockwise 12 times and carry a bundle. Draw the needle on the wrong side through the point D, to secure the thread (Fig. 7).
Output the string at the point E to the left of the fold from the needle 2. Draw point F, to the right of the fold 4 to a point E. reserve needle into the tissue (Fig. 8).
Finish the knot, securing it at the point F (Fig. 9).
Output the string at the point G, on the left of the fold from the needle 3. Draw point H on the left of the fold 3 to point G (Fig. 10). Finish the knot as before.
We print the string at the point I, the right of folds 4. Draw the needle from the point J, to the left of the folds 2, to the point I (Fig. 11). Finish the knot as before.
We print the string at the point K, the right of the crease 3. Draw the needle from the point L to point K by placing the tab in the 1st outer petals (Fig. 12).
Finish the knot, as soon as it secured at point L (Fig. 13).
Rose “rococo” on the 4-folds over (Fig. 14).
We decorate our rosette leaves (Fig. 15).
“LOOP” seam.
Derive a thread on the front side at the point A on the top fold (Fig. A). Draw needle through point A and the top folds and display at point C (the needle thread is under) (Fig. B). Tightens the string, tightening the thread under the needle (Fig. C). Withdraw the needle on the wrong side of the loop and tighten the thread (Fig. D). The seam “loop” is completed (Fig. F).
Nodule “rococo” – BUD.
CENTRE. Print the string on the front side at point A on the left of the fold 1 (Fig. A). Draw the needle from right to left diagonally across the top of the folds 1 and 2 (from point B to point A) (Fig. A). Leaving the needle in the tissue. We carry a bundle “Rococo” from 8 turns (Fig. B).
Outer petals. We derive a thread of a different color onto the front side at the point C 1 to the left of the folds (fig. C). Draw needle diagonally from right to left across the tops of the folds 1 and 2 (from point D to point C) (fig. C). Leaving the needle in the tissue. We carry a bundle “rococo” of the 12 turns, and laid it on the first knot (Fig. D.).
We print the string at the point C (Fig. F). Again, right, hold the needle through the apex of folds 1 and 2 (from point D to point C) (fig. F). Leaving the needle in the tissue. We carry a bundle “rococo” of the 12 turns, and laid him in the first knot (Fig. K). Fix the thread.
Bud “Rococo” is completed (Fig. K).
Finished type of embroidery.
Getting sleeve embroidery.
Astringent on the bottom of the sleeves tightening by the width of the lines: Fr + 2 cm.
Spreads folds and stripped of their iron.
Embroider pattern under the scheme thread threads three threads.
We do tightening thread and decorate with floral motifs embroidered pattern.
We get a look that’s a sleeve.
Formation of the fasteners on the back of the dress.
On the wrong side of the line of departing from the middle back 1 cm in the direction of the cut parts, we go around the seam allowance on the front side (Fig. A).
Stepping back from the edge of the neck down to 15 cm, making tie-back details of a fold line to the middle of the back (Fig. A blue arrow).
Use scissors to cut the fabric under the tack as shown in Fig. b.
Wrenched the resulting corner on the front side. Throughout the length of the fastener press out the fabric 1 cm to the wrong side (Fig. C).
The same action is repeated for the second backrest part.
Fold the two pieces back inside out, combining the middle line of the back and bottom of the fastener (Fig. A). Tailor shear pins.
We grind both parts through the middle of the back, making the start and end of the tack. Process the slices fasteners and middle back seam in the overlock or machine stitching “zigzag”. The average back seam leaving the seam allowance of 1 cm. Press out the seam on one side (Fig. B).
Corner left side of the zipper on the front side deduce the details of the back and leave the right side on the wrong side. We combine the middle of the back line in two parts and fasteners shear dressmaker pins (Fig. A).
At the bottom of the fastener do tack (Fig. B).
HANDLING CUT THROAT.
Is folded with one hand fold piping, are putting it to slice the throat, pinned along the entire length of tailor’s pins (fig. A) and pritachivaem her bend to the neck (Fig. B).
It is very important not to stretch the neck cut during sewing, so you need to check during all operations with the template number 2 in n. 19.
Cheroots piping, leaving 0.5 cm from folding clasp on the back of the dress (Fig. A). Fold the ends of those on the wrong side (Fig. B).
Bends very oblique Bakey over the entire length on the wrong side, so that its fold from the wrong side of the crease appeared on the face of a 0.1 – 0.2 cm (Fig c.).
At the front of the dress paving machine line under the fold bias binding (Fig. D).
Aligns the neck cut the pattern number 2 and otutyuzhivanie.
Fold back and shelf inside out. We combine stitch the seams sleeves and side edges of the backrest parts, shelves and sleeves (Fig. A). Paving the entire length of the machine on a seam line width of 1 cm (Fig. B). Process the slices on overlock machine or stitching “zigzag” (Fig. D) and press out the side seam on the back part.
Bends on the wrong side of the lower cut dresses to 1.5 cm (Fig. A). Then again 1.5 cm (Fig. B). Tailor shear pins and the inner bend on the wrong side of the fabric paving machine stitch a seam width of 0.1 cm (Fig. D).
On the front side of the product lines combine pairs of folds, shear dressmaker pins (fig. A) and laid along these lines machine line (Fig. B). Remove the auxiliary thread and press out the resulting folds down (Fig. C).
Remove the tightening strings along the neck cut. Through the middle of the back on the left side of the fastener break through the loops, and sew on buttons (Fig. A) on the right on the same line. Remove the auxiliary thread (Fig. B). Otutyuzhivaem entire article
Dress ready. And finally, some photos smallest model in the new thing.
