How to sew lacy buttonhole wheel

By posted on March 2, 2018 5:39PM
lacy buttonhole wheel
Today’s Stitch! tutorial explores the buttonhole wheel eyelet, expanded a bit with some lacy surroundings.
This stitch combination can be worked in any kind of embroidery thread, and it can be sized up or down. It would make a terrific addition to encrusted, textured embroidery projects.
You might put it to good use in stumpwork or in Brazilian dimensional embroidery. It can be used for flower centers – or just as is, to add a spot of interest to your project!
lacy buttonhole wheel
Let’s get started!Let’s get started!
lacy buttonhole wheel
We’re going to start with a buttonhole wheel eyelet.
I’ve marked a small circle on my fabric – it’s just smaller than 3/8″ of an inch in diameter. The finer the thread you use, the smaller you can make your circle. You’ll have to experiment with different threads to see what kind of proportions you like, between the size of the circle and the weight of your thread.
For the foundation wheel here, I’m using a piece of thread that’s about 18″ long.
Bring the needle and thread to the front on the design line, and take the needle down into the fabric in the center of the circle.
Because we’re working an eyelet, linen is a terrific fabric to use for this. If you enter the fabric at B in the “hole” in the weave (rather than splitting any of the linen threads), you’ll be able to form a small eyelet, or open hole, quite easily, by simply forcing the linen threads to part.
To make the hole, before you pull your needle through to the back, just twirl your needle around in the fabric a bit, forcing your fabric to open up in a larger hole.
lacy buttonhole wheel
I just swirled my needle around in that space, until I had a nice sized hole.
lacy buttonhole wheel
Now, I know a lot of stitchers have problems making buttonhole wheels and keeping the outline of the wheel from buckling in on itself.
When you make each buttonhole stitch around the wheel, it’s important to maintain tension on the working thread, pulling it in the direction that the little “elbow” in the buttonhole stitch points.
This tension on the working thread will also help open up your eyelet hole a little bit.
As long as you maintain tension on your working thread with each stitch, the edges of your buttonhole wheel shouldn’t buckle inwards.
lacy buttonhole wheel
Continue around the wheel, maintaining good tension on that thread!
Now and then, you can swirl your needle in the center hole, too, to open it further as you go along.
lacy buttonhole wheel
When you get all the way around your wheel, make sure to gauge the final stitches so that they are more or less evenly distributed. The “elbow” of your last stitch should line up right next to where you initially began stitching (point A).
To secure the wheel, take the needle and thread down into the fabric behind your very first buttonhole stitch.
lacy buttonhole wheel
Once the wheel is complete, change threads!
This time, you’ll want a long thread. For the rest of this element, I’m using a 37″ long piece of thread!
It’s important at this point to take your time and go slowly. If you’re working with a long thread, chances are, it will twist up now and then, and if you’re working really fast, you’re bound to get slip knots. So take your time! Occasionally, you might hold your work up in the air and let your needle and thread drop towards the floor, to allow your thread to untwist if it’s getting cranky.
Bring the needle and new thread to the front of the fabric under the end of the buttonhole wheel, at the tip of any spoke.
lacy buttonhole wheel
Now you’re going to work three buttonhole stitches over the edge of each buttonhole stitch on the wheel.
These three stitches should be worked rather tightly so that they snug up around the previous buttonhole stitch edge. The three stitches may seem a bit tight in that small space – and that’s ok! They might even ruffle up a bit – and that’s ok, too!
lacy buttonhole wheel
In the photo above, I’ve completed three buttonhole stitches over the edge of the first foundation buttonhole stitch, and I’m moving on to the second foundation stitch.
lacy buttonhole wheel
Notice how tight and close those three little buttonhole stitches are. That’s what you’re aiming for!
Work all the way around the buttonhole wheel, buttonholing the edge.
When you arrive back at your first set of loops, without going to the back of the fabric, you’re going to start another round of buttonhole stitches worked into the small, tight buttonholes on the edge of the wheel.
This second round of buttonhole stitches will be a bit different, though!
lacy buttonhole wheel
Working over the edge of each of the small, tight buttonhole stitches on the first round, you’ll work one buttonhole stitch. But instead of tightening the stitch up, leave the loop somewhat loose and open.
You can experiment and play around with just how loose you can leave these stitches. I’ve left them open enough that I can see the open loop clearly, but not so open that they are particularly floppy.
Work all the way around the wheel, making one loose buttonhole stitch in each of the tiny, tight buttonhole stitches you worked in the first round.
lacy buttonhole wheel
Eventually, you’ll be back at your first loose loop!
lacy buttonhole wheel
Without passing your needle and thread through the fabric, you’ll pass into the middle of that first loose loop, and work another loose buttonhole stitch.
And then, you’ll progress all the way around the circle again, working one more loose buttonhole stitch in each loose buttonhole stitch of the previous row.
Now you know why you want to work with a long thread! You’re continuously circling, without the opportunity to pass to the back of the fabric to end and change your thread again.
lacy buttonhole wheel
Eventually, you’ll end up back at the first loop of your second round of loose buttonhole stitches.
And you could keep going like this forever, I suppose! But this is where we’ll end it!
lacy buttonhole wheel
To end the thread and secure the stitches, you’ll just cross into the first loop of this second loose round, crossing the intersection where you’ll see the last stitch and the first stitch of the round overlap.
Take the needle and thread to the back of the fabric and secure the thread by passing under the back of the stitches from the buttonhole wheel eyelet.
lacy buttonhole wheel
You’ve just created a detached, lacy circle that grows out of the buttonhole wheel eyelet!
You can see that most of the lacy circle is completely free of the fabric, except where the first round is worked in the buttonhole wheel eyelet and where you’ve anchored your last stitch.
lacy buttonhole wheel
Thank you!
courtesy: needlenthread

Recently Published Stories

Tassel embroidery

Tassel embroidery for sleeves

Tassel embroidery Hand embroidery sleeve design How to design sleeve with hand embroidery Diy

New design blouse

New design blouse cutting and stitching at home

This video will show you how to create a beautiful and simple way MMS Latest Blouse Back Neck designs Easy

stylish neck design

Latest stylish neck design cutting and stitching

In this video I will show latest stylish neck design (easy way) cutting and stitching.

Sleeves latest design

Sleeves latest design cutting and stitching

In this post I will show you sleeves latest design cutting and stitching.

designer sleeves

Beautiful designer sleeves making

Beautiful designer sleeves making

2K Shares
Share2K
Tweet
Pin
+1
Stumble
Share