Today I invite you to sew a skirt of lace jacquard. Traditionally, this technique sewed and in Russia, and in China, and in Mexico and in other countries.
For skirts, we need only about 80 m tape. Every kind I bought one (focus on the hips), up to three meters (on the bottom of the skirt I got 2.8 m). Fabrics on the base and lining fabric take on 2.3 m and a width of 1.4 m (length skirts 70 cm).
First sew basis – skirt polusolntse of not thick fabrics (linen or cotton), which we will gradually sewn braid. Skirt better sew on sleeves, as the tape “holding form” and the expansion of the waist will create an unnecessary amount. (photo 1)
So, we build the pattern. To build we need putting waist measurements
(hereinafter referred to Article ), putting the hips (Sat ), skirt length ( DUB ). For good fit skirt we also need the value of increases by the waist and hips (hereinafter referred Fri, Pb ).
We need to build a straight skirt – to yoke and skirt-polusolntse. I took my measurements for example, and you can build a pattern in its:
St = 35 cm
Sa = 50 cm
DUB = 70 cm
Fr = 1 cm
Pb = 1cm
. Direct skirt First construct a grid: draw a right angle with the vertex at the point T , from which the down position postpone the hips TB = 19 cm Position the bottom line. CN = DUB . Through the points B and H hold horizontal lines.
The width of the skirt at the hips line defines the segment BB1 = Sa + Pb = 51.
The position of the side line of division determines the segment BB2 = (Sa + Pb): 2 – 1 = 24,5sm -the rear panel.
The right side of the drawing – the front panel = 51 – 24.5 = 26.5 cm
Position the front of the line tucks B1B4 = = 0,4B1B2 10,6sm
Position the rear tuck line BB3 = = 0,4bB2 9,8sm.
Through the points B1 , B2 , B3 , B4 hold vertical line to its intersection with the waist line and get the points T1 , T2 , T3 , T4 . A B1 , B2 hold vertical line to its intersection with the bottom line.
Determine the sum of the solutions tucks = (Pb + Sb) – (Cm + Fr) = (50 + 1) – (35 + 1) = 15cm.
The resultant solution was distributed between three darts: lateral, back, front.
A solution of the lateral half of the amount of tuck tucks = 7.5 cm =
back darts solution = 0.35 = sum = 15h0,35 5,25sm – rounded up to 5cm.
The solution front tuck amount = 0.15 = 15 x 0.15 = 2,25sm – rounded up to 2.5 cm.
The solution darts evenly distributed left and right of the respective verticals T2 , T3 , T4 . Increasing the lateral sections of the skirt at the hips bulge with respect to the waist line is defined as T2t = 1.5 cm up. A point T hold horizontal at which the left and right lay off half side and put tuck T1 and T2 . Connecting points T1 and T2 with T and T1 .
Parties make out the side darts smooth lines. The lower end of the side darts should be 2 cm above the point B2 , a front tuck – 4-6 cm above the point B4 , the rear – is not more than 4 cm from point B3 . Party equate tucks on the larger side for the rear cloth at – for the front.The upper section of the skirt between the darts legalize concave lines. (photo 2)
Now, based on this drawing are building a coquette. We only need to build up to the hips. You can just get the item to make a copy on tracing paper and the pattern straight skirt, built by your size, postponed for the following creations! Cut the pattern paper from the hips to the ends of darts and dart close, bending the paper and aligning the sides of the line tucks. For convenience, you can tuck seal. See how I did it on a paper layout in a scale of 1: 4 (by means of a large-scale sartorial line). (Picture 3.4)
Measured from the top of the skirt 15 cm in the middle of the forehand, mid-back and side-line, prepare a smooth line the bottom of the yoke. Cut the excess part of the pattern below the line. Pattern coquette ready. (Photo5)