Today I invite you to sew a skirt of lace jacquard. Traditionally, this technique sewed and in Russia, and in China, and in Mexico and in other countries.
For skirts, we need only about 80 m tape. Every kind I bought one (focus on the hips), up to three meters (on the bottom of the skirt I got 2.8 m). Fabrics on the base and lining fabric take on 2.3 m and a width of 1.4 m (length skirts 70 cm).
First sew basis – skirt polusolntse of not thick fabrics (linen or cotton), which we will gradually sewn braid. Skirt better sew on sleeves, as the tape “holding form” and the expansion of the waist will create an unnecessary amount. (photo 1)
So, we build the pattern. To build we need putting waist measurements
(hereinafter referred to Article ), putting the hips (Sat ), skirt length ( DUB ). For good fit skirt we also need the value of increases by the waist and hips (hereinafter referred Fri, Pb ).
We need to build a straight skirt – to yoke and skirt-polusolntse. I took my measurements for example, and you can build a pattern in its:
St = 35 cm
Sa = 50 cm
DUB = 70 cm
Fr = 1 cm
Pb = 1cm
. Direct skirt First construct a grid: draw a right angle with the vertex at the point T , from which the down position postpone the hips TB = 19 cm Position the bottom line. CN = DUB . Through the points B and H hold horizontal lines.
The width of the skirt at the hips line defines the segment BB1 = Sa + Pb = 51.
The position of the side line of division determines the segment BB2 = (Sa + Pb): 2 – 1 = 24,5sm -the rear panel.
The right side of the drawing – the front panel = 51 – 24.5 = 26.5 cm
Position the front of the line tucks B1B4 = = 0,4B1B2 10,6sm
Position the rear tuck line BB3 = = 0,4bB2 9,8sm.
Through the points B1 , B2 , B3 , B4 hold vertical line to its intersection with the waist line and get the points T1 , T2 , T3 , T4 . A B1 , B2 hold vertical line to its intersection with the bottom line.
Determine the sum of the solutions tucks = (Pb + Sb) – (Cm + Fr) = (50 + 1) – (35 + 1) = 15cm.
The resultant solution was distributed between three darts: lateral, back, front.
A solution of the lateral half of the amount of tuck tucks = 7.5 cm =
back darts solution = 0.35 = sum = 15h0,35 5,25sm – rounded up to 5cm.
The solution front tuck amount = 0.15 = 15 x 0.15 = 2,25sm – rounded up to 2.5 cm.
The solution darts evenly distributed left and right of the respective verticals T2 , T3 , T4 . Increasing the lateral sections of the skirt at the hips bulge with respect to the waist line is defined as T2t = 1.5 cm up. A point T hold horizontal at which the left and right lay off half side and put tuck T1 and T2 . Connecting points T1 and T2 with T and T1 .
Parties make out the side darts smooth lines. The lower end of the side darts should be 2 cm above the point B2 , a front tuck – 4-6 cm above the point B4 , the rear – is not more than 4 cm from point B3 . Party equate tucks on the larger side for the rear cloth at – for the front.The upper section of the skirt between the darts legalize concave lines. (photo 2)
Now, based on this drawing are building a coquette. We only need to build up to the hips. You can just get the item to make a copy on tracing paper and the pattern straight skirt, built by your size, postponed for the following creations! Cut the pattern paper from the hips to the ends of darts and dart close, bending the paper and aligning the sides of the line tucks. For convenience, you can tuck seal. See how I did it on a paper layout in a scale of 1: 4 (by means of a large-scale sartorial line). (Picture 3.4)
Measured from the top of the skirt 15 cm in the middle of the forehand, mid-back and side-line, prepare a smooth line the bottom of the yoke. Cut the excess part of the pattern below the line. Pattern coquette ready. (Photo5)
Measure measuring tape lower edge length pattern for building polusolntsa. I got 50 cm (half size).
Conical skirt (polusolntse). The basis of the Drawing is a skirt portion of the circle. In this regard, the waist, hips and a bottom skirt portion are circumferential length which must comply with the shape measurement increments, depending on the width of the skirt. Line wrap hip measurement is usually larger figure. The waistline (and in our case the line sequin yoke) shall be equal to the circumference of the waist (we obtained measurements of the line sewing coquette – 50 cm).
All estimates of construction drawings are reduced to the determination of the radius of the circle corresponding to the drawing line sequin yoke. Uniform expansion skirt along the entire length, and the bottom is determined by factor – a . During the construction of the center take the point about . From her down vertically postpone the segment OT . OT = StHk . For yubki- polusolntse k = 0.64 .
FROM = StHk 50H0,64 = = 32 cm.
From the point of T down vertically postpone the distance to the bottom line. CN = DUB.
From the points of T and H radii OT and IT, we hold the right of the arc. On horizontally from the point O to the right lay off a distance equal toON, and set the point T1. Here lay off a distance equal to the length of the skirt, and put the point of the H1. It is possible to build all projected to the left side, then we get the pattern polusolntsa for our model. I remind you that in this case the distance OF is calculated not by the standards of waist circumference and along the length of the bottom of the yoke (see. The construction of the yoke above) (Photo 6.7)
Now, with the pattern pieces yoke and cloth skirt, cut out parts of the base fabric. We will flirt with a fold in the middle of the forehand and polusolntsa panel also folded, permitting the fabric or stitched in the middle of the forehand.
Getting Started with braid . First you have to pick up the webbing and to determine the procedure for sewing. It may be different in color ribbon, or some of the main color, or located on the color spectrum – everything depends on your imagination. But the widest desirable braid sewn on the bottom of the skirt like finish. Even so, the most striking decorative items and a large decor located on the edge of the clothes – it’s a tradition.
Sewing braid starting from the top, from the waist line. I love to sew clothes lined, so we can leave the top of the skirt is cut open, then he closes we will go into lined or belt. His skirt I sewed without Sew belt.
In the process of sewing tape, we must bear in mind that we conical skirt and braids – a straight strip of cloth so that the upper edge of the tape must be slightly priposazhivat and put in shape skirt and the lower edge will go to non-stop and folds. Making it more convenient on a large table, primetyvaya braid to the skirt, first on one or two ribbons, the lower edge of the top tape covering upper edge of the lower priposazhenny 1mm. (Photo 8,9,10)
After basting stitch to stitch on the machine, and remove the basting. It is possible to both edges is particularly beautiful ribbons sewn on top of the neighboring, lace can be used – it all depends on your imagination. Sewn braid each following should be selected from one edge of your skirt, and so continue throughout the work on the product, all the way down.
When all the tapes will be sewn, you must osnorovit product fold it in half along a front of the line to the outside, align, cut off the excess at the back seam with tape, waist line and the bottom of the skirt base.
Now sew up back seam zippers, otutyuzhivaem it inside out, sew the zipper. Then cut out the lining, sew it as a skirt, folding a skirt front side, sewn on the bottom line, there is a gut-wrenching skirt, waistline baste with lining and sew on hands (a hidden seam) or by car.Jacquard braid does not last, so we can not strengthen the waistline cushioning material.
Sew this skirt is not easy, need hard work and time, but the result will please you. I wish you all success!