Transparent fabrics (gauze, georgette, chiffon …) require narrow seam edges to achieve a good seam appearance both internally and externally. It is also of interest to obtain a type of flexible seam, which adapts to the mounting of parts in parts to the bias, thread or counter-thread of the fabric. A very popular sewing type used for these fabrics is “French” sewing, which works very well for straight seams, but which is impossible to apply in corners, curved seams, etc., and which also has the “defect” of The accumulation of layers of fabrics that add rigidity to the finished seam.
Join the seams with a stitch in the usual way (flat seam). NOTE: We will try to work with added seam margins, and avoid where possible thread marks that would damage gauze fabrics, etc.
Trim one of the seam allowances to 2 mm. Of stitching.
Overlap the other seam allowance and hold with a weft above the previously trimmed margin.
Overlay above the folded seam. We can do this operation by hand or by machine. With the zig-zag we will obtain a more regular margin, but perhaps not as flexible as with the over-yarn by hand.
We cut the seam allowance so as not to damage the fabric or the points of the overcasting.
This is the external appearance of the finished seam in a bamboo fabric, in which you can appreciate the flexibility and lightness of it.
OTHER FINISHINGS AND FINISHES (Other finishes) .-
Hems (Machine rolled hem)
Look of rolled hem, machine sewed.
To make this type of hems, we only have to bend the margin of the same and, first, pass a stitch to 1 mm. Of the edge. We can use a compensated presser foot for the stitching, which will facilitate this work.
Next step: Cut the folded margin to the stitching, taking care not to damage it.
Finally, we fold the cut edge again inwards and pass another stitch by the edge, using the compensated presser foot.
Hems (Hem with zig-zag stitch)
This is a type of hem widely used in gauze fabrics, chiffon, etc. It is very easy to perform and optimal for breasts at breasts in skirts, dresses …
There is only one step to follow to make this hem: Turn the seam allowance inwards, pass a dense zig-zag stitch and trim the excess.
TERMINATION and POLISHING of seams with strips of fabric cut to bite
Polished neckline with a strip of fabric to the pre-bias bias. RELATED POST.
The initial step is the preparation of the part to be polished. In this case, the edge of a neckline, which is pre-punched previously on a tissue paper that will prevent slippage of the fabric. The same stitching marks the seam line and will also serve as a hold for possible stretching.
We also prepare a strip to the bias as narrow as possible, and we can do with one of these utensils that exist in the market for this purpose.
We put the strip to the bias on the neckline and fasten externally (Edge of the strip/stitching neckline), with a nylon. Open the strip and sew inside applying the same with a stitch.
Cut the seam margins, fold the strip inwards and hold it with stitches by hand on the initial stitching.
The appearance of the polished neckline, on the outside.
Exterior and interior of the seam at an angle.
FINISHED “Frayed finish
Finally, an alternative to all the above and which is also widely used today in some Haute Couture dresses. See examples in CHANEL.
One of the simplest ways to achieve a different “look” in a dress. Simply sew the seams leaving the margins on the outside, cut approximately 1 cm. Away from the stitching, and frayed.